One of those old mines

Here are some photos of one of the old mines mentioned in the article below. This is a quicksilver or cinnabar mine from within the National Park, not terribly far from Boquillas, location of the Christmas Flotilla. (Click on the photos for a closer view.)

Christmas Story

Please pardon this long post--a well-worth-the-read story from the newspaper, Big Bend Sentinel, December 22. It was published in Spanish the same day, in the Intenational based in Presidio.

"South Brewster County residents remember their Mexican neighbors during Christmas" by Sharon Collyer

"Our vehicles loaded with people, canoes, and supplies arrived at the Rio Grande Village boat ramp in Big Bend NationalPark amid a torrent of activity, noise, and excitement. A small group of park visitors, who moments before enjoyed the quiet warmth of a clear winter day, moved back courteously to allow for the synchronized unloading of the vehicles along the Rio Grande shoreline.

Curious about the endless piles of bags and boxes that we stacked against the river's edge, they approached and asked questions. Within 10 minutes, our new friends received an introduction to the ancient ties that bind the two shores of the Rio Grande River. They learned about the Spanish who traveled this land centuries ago, about the dozen or so trading posts along the river where cultures mingled and about the history of the small mining towns that sprung up nearby seven generations ago.

They heard about the open border crossing between Boquillas and the park, a crossing that had allowed park visitors and Mexican nationals to cross over to the opposite side of the river for almost 60 years. They grasped the economic and cultural significance that this crossing had for Boquillas residents, who still live four and a half car hours away from their closest re-supply point and who depended on American tourist dollars and the Rio Grande Village store for all their basic needs, including food, gasoline, clean water and an emergency telephone.

And our new friends were saddened to learn that the May 2002 border closure in Big Bend National Park wiped away all hopes for a continuing tradition of cross-cultural life, and that the ties that bind the two shores were quickly unraveling under the strain of politics, terrorism and misunderstanding.

Piled along the shore were 27 smoked hams, seven frozen turkeys, eight bags of sewing material, four bags of clothes, five boxes of dehydrated milk, 20 pounds of candy canes, four boxes of children's books, a gigantic antique treadle sewing machine, seven tires, four brake pads, seven canoeists, and two supporting volunteers. All supplies were donated, or bought with cash donations.

"But why today?" asked one of the visitors.

"Christmas!" one of us responded. "This is our gift to our friends and neighbors, the people of Boquillas."

Compassion welled in the man's eyes. He reached into his wallet and pulled out a twenty dollar bill. "Please take this. You are doing great things. Thank you."

"Most people want to help. They just don't know how," explains the Boquillas Flotilla organizer, Cynta De Narvaez, of Terlingua. "Events like this give people the opportunity to get involved in any way they feel most comfortable."

De Narvaez has been immersed in the plight of Boquillas' residents since the border closure. As a tour guide, she led travel trips through the area for many years. As a friend, she visited frequently and was welcomed as a member of the community. Today, as an activist, she is hard at work helping the town establish an independent economic footing. Along with Marathon local Danielle Gallo, who taught school in Boquillas prior to the closure, she has set up a local legal craft trade which hopefully will be the first step in the long process of economic stability. In fact, the Boquillas Flotilla was originally Gallo's idea, who maintains close ties to the village despite the closure.

Working directly with the benediction of the National Park Service, De Narvaez organized the Flotilla to strictly follow international border laws. She says, "We need to keep this legal so that the park can allow us to do this every year." Keeping the Flotilla legal means not donating anything that may have resale value, not bringing anything from Mexico into the United States, and not stepping on Mexican soil. Aslong as our feet remain in the canoes, we are following the letter of the law.

Have you ever tried to unload a fully loaded, unbalanced canoe sitting in a swift section of river without stepping out?

Along with the Flotilla, DeNarvaez and Forever Resorts, the park's concessionaire and lodge operator, are presently working together to sell Boquillas-made crafts in National Park gift shops. This endeavor is the culmination of many months of planning and meetings and is an indication that the National Park and its affiliates share the local community's hopes of an independent Boquillas.

"Ahi Vienen!" shouts the man who first lays eyes on the Flotilla. Soon, the Mexican bank is swarming with men, women, and children who rush out to greet us. As we balance precariously on our canoes, the goods are unloaded quickly. Old friends shake hands; I swallow back a lump of tears. Victor, Geraldo, Yolanda, Carla, Pablo....the whole town is here. Phyllis Grolla, age 80, a winter resident of Terlingua, shares news with Pablo, age 80, a permanent resident of Boquillas. "So how's the little girl?" she asks. "Fine, muy bien. That's her over there and her little girl," responds Pablo. "Oh my gosh, Carla, you are all grown up!" cries Phyllis. "It's been awhile, hasn't it?"

Our time is short. We can't stay long, the authorities warned. Neither can we legally accept their gifts: walking sticks, scarves and copper scorpions sit untouched on the shore. The Mexicans, more than anyone, understand our apprehension at taking anything home.

One by one, once unloaded, we point our canoes upstream to start the strenuous one-and-a-half mile paddle back to the boat launch. I am the last one to leave; Victor launches into his classic rendition of "Cielito Lindo." I turn to wave, and almost tip my canoe. My Boquillas friends are starting to load up their vehicles to drive their presents home.

"Feliz navidad y prospero ano nuevo!" I holler as I take a last look back.

"Y a usted tambien! Hey! Thanks for the tires!" Victor yells back.

In the calm after the storm, in the privacy of my own canoe, I let the tears flow. Although only 30 feet of river separates our neighbors in Boquillas from our lives in the United States, our realities are as far removed as the planets in the solar system. The line between comfort and poverty is established by the side of the river on which we were born.

It wasn't always this way.

If you'd like to help, or find out more about the present status of Boquillas, Santa Elena, San Vicente, and Paso Lajitas, please contact Danielle Gallo at 432-386-4282 or email her at caveat5@hotmail.com

Foundation Friends, an unlikely coincidence

Proving the world is indeed a very small place, I went hiking today with a geologist, who just happens to be the daughter of of Bobbie Dotson's gentleman friend. This is where we were, climbing on rocks, scaring javelina out of their hiding places and finding arrowheads and flint chips.

Quinceanera, the 15th birthday celebration. I want to know more about this tradition...

A random article from the Big Bend Sentinel.
Presidio--Shayla Marquez looked beautiful as she arrived on Dec. 23 at Santa Teresa de Jesus Catholic Church for her quinceanera celebration in a 1800-era horse carriage driven by Candi McKeel. She walked into the church in the arm of her handsome father Sammy Marquez. She wore a pastel pink dress.

The church was beautifully decorated with pink roses and carnations. Father Rolando Fonseca officiated at the Holy Mass. A dinner-reception-dance followed immediately at Father Benito Hall, which was decorated with pastel pink and hot pink. The tables were covered in white with hot pink bows.

Crystal vases of pink roses were place on the tables along with crystal platters filled with biscochos. Clear miniature lights covered with pastel pink tulle decorated the ceilings and walls. Shayla danced her first dance with her father.

The guests dined on pasta, salads, and brisket with all the trimmings and danced to the music of "Aquario 90" and "Los Robles" of Ojinaga, Chih., Mexico.

Shayla's parents are Sammy and Nereida Marquez of Presidio; her paternal grandparents are Alberto and Concha Marques; and maternal grandparents are Jose and Amparo Madrid, all of Presidio. Among the guests were uncles and aunts who traveled from Dallas and Chicago to help celebrate.

Bobcat

Revised, January 17. (No, I didn't get this close to the bobcat. This is a photo I pulled off the internet!)
We were up and out early. We drank our coffee black because the milk froze overnight in the worst fridge in the worst motel room in Terlingua, and we didn't have time to waste. The sky was already lighting up into pinks, oranges, and lavenders. From the road, we had our eyes peeled for wildlife, but all seemed quiet. We'd see a cottontail or two, maybe a small bird moving too fast for identification. Then there was something in the road, "a kitty?!?" Well, sort of. It was a small bobcat slinking across the road. They're all over here, but not seen very often.

I'm one of THEM now

Cowboy hat
Texas license plate
Texas driver license
Voter registration card

Boots!

More South Rim Pictures

Another view of Mexico way, way out there

From where I'm standing, atop the South Rim at the Big Bend National Park, I'm only about 15 miles as the crow flies from Mexico. You can see a LOT further than that. The day before we arrived, there was 115 miles of visibility, but we had a bit of an overcast day. Still this is a hike I would highly recommend to the adventurous. Thirteen plus miles of moderately difficult walking. No climbing, and well worth the trouble to see the view.

The Border

This is it. On the right, across the river is Mexico. The United States is on the left. Simple.

But nothing's simple about the border. I can't express how bewildering the maze of issues are to this midwesterner.

The Border Patrol is a constant presence. There's an unmanned blimp over Marfa, taking pictures and lord knows what of all of us down on the ground. (Genetic scans, maybe?) The local papers talk about the thousands of illegal aliens crossing the border every month. And they note the ones who don't make it, and are found dead in the desert. It happens more than you'd like to know.

This is a picture of the border at the Big Bend National Park. Across the river, we saw a herd of cattle (with cowbells!) grazing in Mexico. Bucolic and lovely. Tomorrow, I'll be in El Paso, within blocks of the bridge across the Rio Grande to Juarez, and the crossing will be crowded, noisy, dirty. I prefer the country myself.

My thoughts about the border are too unformed, uninformed, probably desperately naive. To say much more than that would be irresponsible. Maybe as time goes on, I'll figure some of this out and let you know. Or maybe I won't figure any of it out. That's probably more likely. Anyway, I suspect some of my first artwork will be about living in the borderland. That's usually the way I try to explore difficult issues--through my fingers.

Just thought it was time I said something about it.

Oh yeah, and I do feel safe here, in case you were wondering. Rest assured, worriers out there. No, I won't be going into Mexico alone.

Wow

The books for the library just keep coming! Since I gave you the last update, I've received donations from Mary Lamm, of Iowa City, and Anne Remington, of Fort Wayne, Indiana. Over the holiday, I had some help rearranging my library and discovered some additional books I could pass along. (Shocking, I know!) And I've heard from family, friends, and friends-of-friends, that nearly twenty more books are on their way to Van Horn.

To keep up with the list, I've created a new blog (see the link on the right of this page) where I'll post the donations when I receive them. Thanks so much to everyone, and keep 'em coming! The librarian has been very happy with the resources she's received.

New donations:

Into Thin Air, by Jon Krakauer
Lost in a Good Book, by Jasper Fforde
Ursula, Under, by Ingrid Hill
Emma, by Jane Austen
Sense and Sensibility by Jane Austen
The Last Girls, by Lee Smith
To Kill a Mockingbird, by Harper Lee
Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone by J.K. Rowling
Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets, by J.K. Rowling
Ambulance Girl, by Jane Stern