Monday, July 21, 2008

Solo Mountain Hiking

One of the things I never seriously thought I'd do was solo mountain hiking, but my experiences in Texas' wild spaces primed me perfectly for adventure in the Scottish Highlands. While the family was off exploring other parts, I tackled #69 from the book, 100 Walks in Scotland, "Around the Small Shepherd." There was nothing "small" about it, nor dry for that matter, nor tame. Nor was it a mere "walk." But it was wild and exciting and exhausting and I left the 8 mile hike (not including the 4 mile trek back to the hotel afterwards) feeling so accomplished, I know I'll never HAVE to prove my physical stamina ever again. Though the elevation was just about the same as Van Horn's 4000 feet, the scale was massive, and the climate unforgiving, though completely different from the challenges at home.



Waving goodbye to the family at the trailhead, before heading through the Lairig Gartain. On the right is Stob Nan Cabar; on the left, Stob Dearg. It was spitting wet out, just shy of pelting cold, needlesharp rain. Wonderful.

The white tufts in the Glen are cotton grass; at upper elevations, the white is snow. Diminutive wildflowers are everywhere, but so small they're barely visible underfoot. They're tucked next to patches of green, brown, khaki and maroon spaghnum moss, which makes up much of the unmarked trail. So wet and loose and spongy, parts of the route could barely be called soil. Step after step, my boot would sink into the moss and suddenly I'd be standing in an inch or two of water. Thankful our guide advised me how to get out of a truly unstable bog before I headed out...you spreadeagle face down, distributing your weight so you don't sink quite as fast....it was advice I was glad not to have to take.

The trail was marked only in spots, just boot-worn stretches and an occasional rock cairn. This satisfying little detour offered a well-constructed pathway. It begged to be taken and did not disappoint.




Pure clean water.








Many tributaries to traverse, and waterfalls everywhere. Plenty of opportunities to hop boulder to boulder, the river roaring at my feet.


Ordnance maps are sometimes a challenge, so when you think you might be lost, take the time for a goofy self-portrait! And smile like you don't have a care in the world. (Turns out, I'd followed the trail perfectly! Yay! I hadn't been lost at all!) Do I have a Himalayn sherpa look going? No?




The view of Dainess Estate far below in the Glen.








For awhile, I was hikingin the clouds. Here I'm near the end of the actual hike; so I head back to the hotel. That's four miles back in the cold rain. But for this hot desert dweller, that was tremendous fun, too. I knew a hot shower, a warm pint and a hearty venison casserole was waiting for me.

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